Sunday, September 14, 2014

Ile Maurice Part II

So we were sitting after dinner when we suddenly felt the insult of the driver from the morning. We bitched a lot about him and called our travel guide and asked for another driver on the next day. As I was going through the DSLR photos, I found out that most of my memory card was almost full. The HD quality photos ate so much space. 'Don't worry, I will transfer them into laptop.', I reminded myself. I went into the room and put the SD card into my laptop. Nothing happened for a minute or two. Annoyed, I restarted the laptop and checked SD card, but it was not detected. Then the realization stuck me that I have always used office laptop's card reader to transfer photos. In short, here I was, sitting with laptop with bad card reader. My wife blamed me for my carelessness. Frenziedly I called a couple friend to check whether he had brough any such device. But he was smart, he had brought extra sd card. I went to reception to check whether they have any such device but that was in vain. I can feel the sweat on my temples, I have to find some way. I asked receptionist that whether there is any electronics shop nearby but he told that we were near beaches and all shops are far away. I would not get any time next day until evening. So one day sight-seeing without dSLR, I shivered in terror by that thought. So I came back to the room indecisively. From my porch, I could see a french middle aged man sitting outside in his porch with his laptop. I had seen him everyday, evening onwards, he used to work a lot on laptop. I had an impression that he must be a writer, finding a tranquil environment to do some creative thinking. I gathered courage and approached him. He knew a lot lesser English than what I had anticipated. But he was very welcoming. I explained him my problem and he was ready to help. He gave me the control of his laptop. I was relieved. It has windows vista installed on it. I inserted my sd card and opened 'My Computer'. Wait!, there was something wrong with his computer. At first I was not able to understand what but I felt it quite unfriendly. Suddenly I realized that his language was set to french. I did right-click and asked him which text belonged to copy. Somehow I transferred that data to pen drive. We chatted with him for some time. He was actually into some financial firm and every now and then he would check the share prices on his laptop. This was his 4th or 5th trip to Mauritius. I bet we would not find any Indian like that. I mean, I myself would never go to Mauritius, I would think to visiting some other place, but here was this old man planning to come to this place again and again. Anyways, I thanked him wholeheartedly and warned that I may come back again.

Next day we were the only 3 couples in the van and there was another more friendly driver. We felt special. (see how perception is so deceiving thing, after an insult, a minivan exclusively for us felt like a special thing.) Anyways, the day was supposed to be spend on South Island. So again we had to cross the whole country. On our way, driver stopped at some mall for us to do some shopping, we went just for the sake of it and came out of mall within minutes. Moreover that day was Mauritian Holiday so many shops on the way were closed. The next day was Chinese New Year day and this new driver told us that most of the things will be closed. I hadn't seen that big number of chinese people in mauritius for having a holiday for their new year. We cursed our travel agency for these tourist-unfriendly dates which they planned their tour with. So, finally the driver took us to a place where small miniature boats are created. They showed us the factory briefly and took us inside the factory outlet. There were thousands of mini ships, boats, speed-boats in the showcases.



The art of manufacturing was so clean and exquisite. But they were quite expensive as well. I mean, few prices were quite debatable to be compared with actual boats. There was also a section of pearls where pearls were available in different kinds of ornaments. We took some souvenirs from that shop and took photos of all the 'photography prohibited' art-works. Our next destination was Trou Aux Cerfs.



These french words are completely different when pronounced. It was a crater surrounding the extinct volcano. We took a lot of photos there. Suddenly, it started raining. We ran in the rain. Waited in shelter. Just like in India, we shared our shelter with stray dogs. Ate an ice-cream in rain. It was such a nice time. After doing so much of physical exercise, we started to the next spot, a Shiva temple near a lake called Grand Basin. In Mauritius, the Hindu culture is quite populated. There were lots of temples around. On the way, driver took us to the hotel for lunch. It was the hotel of a south-indian lady. She was looting people like nothing. We shared a thali of food and payed almost 1400 INR for it. Food in mauritius was ridiculously expensive. But we were helpless, in a foreign country and rain was pouring heavily outside. We felt sad. The rain made camera as useless accessory. As we reached the temple, we found a big statue of Lord Shiva. We prayed to him, to stop the rain so that our day does not get wasted. The temple was on the hill and we had to climb couple of hundred stairs to reach to the top. In the rain, we climbed the stairs. The chilling air had numbed my ears. When we reached top, there was a ShivaLing and Hanuman statue. We prayed to god and looked around. We were told that the top view was breath-taking, but all we could see was fog. We ran back to the lake and took some photos. Completely drenched in rain, we started for the last spot of the day, the seven colored earth and charamel. We saw coffee plantations in rain. Looked at a waterfall from a distance and took our photos with it in background.




Finally when we reached at the Seven colored earth, the rain has almost stopped. Due to some volcanic action, the sand had 7 different shades. I could distinguish 5 out of them. Some claimed to find all 7, but I blamed rain for creating mud in the sand. There was a big tortoise with whom we took some photos. There were lots of chinese people at this spot. I found a chinese family, so independent, the father took out his tripod stand, put the camera on it and took the family photo in timer mode. We asked some other chinese man to take our group photo. I thought that for him, handling a Nikon DSLR would be like दायें हाथ का खेल , but he fumbled to take a photo and I had to teach him. We have so many stereotypes, don't we? Me expecting a chinese (now I even think of him only as a chinese, he could even be japanese, korean etc) guy to be gazette friendly is like he expecting me to be Indian Spices expert. Finally, there was a coffee shop where we drank a deliciously tasty coffee and started back our journey. On our way back, there was a viewpoint where sky and ocean meets. No one can spot the horizon.



The spot showed us such a beautiful wonder. The sky was as blue as water and we could not distinguish where water stops and sky starts. I tried to capture that brilliance of color fusion through camera, but the actual scenery was much beyond what was captured. In the evening at 5.30, the driver dropped us back to the resort.

Now being back at resort so early was annoying. We still had lot of enthusiasm in us. So me and my wife freshened up and decided to explore the area. She wanted to try out some seafood and hence we roamed across another beach near our resort. The beach was named as Mont Choisy Beach. It was a semicircular long beach and it had lots of vendor vehicles, but surprisingly many of them were closing. Somehow, we found out that one was still open but it was an ice-cream shop. There were lot of families around who were doing their cooking, but nothing was on sale. So, finally we came back into the residential area. There were all big banglows, deserted though. We walked through many lanes until we reached a small restaurant. It was a typical french restaurant with small chairs and tables, but not a single customer. When we entered the premises, the owner welcomed us. He was looking like a Mauritian origin but had a thick french accent. He 'Bonjour'ed us and we replied back. The table was decorated with a small candle like light and fresh flowers. He gave us the menu cards and waited politely at the corner. As we started going through the menu, there were lots of sea-food varieties. I don't eat sea-food so I had least options. Moreover I was looking at the right column on the menu before reading its name. My wife said that she is not hungry enough to eat any sea-food item alone on her own. We called him and asked him few more questions like which one is more spicy? He started loosing his patience. He asked us which wine we would like? I realized that it would be customary to order wine with any dish. Our uncertainty grew more faster. Finally we ended up ordering a fish salad which we asked him to parcel up. (This was done to avoid the wine expenses.) He lost interest in us and we lost that french touch in his hospitality. Eventually, as evening grew darker, we came back to our resort. I jumped into the swimming pool and was enjoying the resort feel while my wife ate her fish salad, which was nothing but baked fish. Suddenly there was some commotion on the other side of the pool. Some guy has lost his room keys into the pool. He was getting quite a good scolding from his wife. Within few minutes, I felt some metal touched my feet and when I lifted it with a feet, there it was a key. I took it out and went towards that other group. I announced in a cool dude style (this was all in my head) that I heard them talking about a key and showed them I found it out. They thanked me from heart again and again. I swam back to my wife and friends and exclaimed, 'How can that guy loose his key?' and we laughed. But he heard me laughing, not that guy but उपरवाला. Next day I did the same mistake. Ok, I will describe it later. Lets go by the timeline. After an hour or so, we assembled back at the dinner table. There was one big problem with his resort, all the lights at every corner of that estate, were yellow. There was not a single white light. It annoyed few of us so much. The first two days of dinner were quite un-eventful. There were all indian cuisines, so food was not the issue. But when we reached there, we found out that there was a live band playing for all of us. There were two singers accompanied by some pianist and guitarist. It lifted our mood. The singers sang lot of African-mauritain songs. There were such a melodious songs, though we didn't understand a word in it, we felt happy listening to it. There was an african family...a big family in the hall. Few amongst them started tapping their legs to the music beats and within minutes, many of them were on the dance floor. Their dance steps were very simple and reflected their joyful hearts, I had an awesome time enjoying the music and encouraging the dancers, while eating Indian food and tropical breeze soothing us. With stomach full of food and heart full on joy, we returned back to our shelters.

TO BE CONTINUED...

Saturday, September 13, 2014

Ile Maurice Part I


Even though my first foreign tour was to Nepal, I never reminded myself of the same thought. I have never been outside India. Going to foreign country was one of my prime time ambition. When my wife strictly rejected my ideas of going on vacations within India, I found my long time pending ambition taking place. In the leisure day of office work, I opened Thomas Cook website and started searching for Mauritius. After painfully neglecting the Europe Button on the home page, I clicked on Asia and started going through all the tours they had. Singapore..No, Thailand...No, Bangkok..No, Malaysia..No, Qualalampur..No. Huh?? I had reached the end of the page. I went back to the home page and went through another option of package tours. Still I was unable to find Mauritius there. After rigorous search of 5 minutes (With google on our side, the rigorous search can go as far as 5 mins only), I typed 'Thomas Cook Mauritius'. Meanwhile, I came up to conclusion that all dates for Mauritius are full. When I got google search result, I got my first lesson.

MAURITIUS IS A PART OF AFRICA CONTINENT.

I booked my ticket on phone. Can you believe that??? Yup and after the payment was done, I came home flying with tropical mauritian air in my head. Till now, I didn't know anything about foreign exchange, who provides it and what are the conversion rates. I was told by my travel agent that I should carry USD. (United States Dollars, in short, $). I understood lot of things in my second lesson.

FOREX STANDS FOR FOREIGN EXCHANGE.
I SHOULD START PAYING ATTENTION TO ANY CONVERSATION WHICH TALKS ABOUT RUPEE VALUE COMING DOWN OR GOING UP.

As days progressed, we started visiting frequently to malls and started piling up clothes for trip. (Not a single dress should be repeated, said my Wife. Women are women!!) After fighting and deciding on different beach-wears (Here beach wear for me refers to t-shirts and 3/4ths with bright colors which you usually would never wear in day to day civilization.) The credit of single yet big travel bag for both of us should undoubtedly go to my wife. With all baggage done, we had passed one more hurdle.

Now comes one more unknown territory, visa. My third lesson was quite simple and straight forward.

MARITIUS HAS VISA ON ARRIVAL.

I checked it again and again on Internet and verified with Agent. So, till we were safely outside mauritius airport I had a strange lump in my throat, 'What if they reject the visa?' Mediocrecy takes time to go, you know However the visa processing went as smooth as it could ever happen. As we came out of the Airport, we faced a small crowd, each individual was holding a board of the agency it belonged to. None of them carried name of my agency. But before I could shed some sweats, a guy approached and announced that we belong to him. He pointed us to the counter of Thomas Cook which said 'Foreign Exchange'. I was like, 'Dude, I know, I have bought USDs'. But he surprised me by saying, 'Get some Mauritian Rupees there'. I remembered the golden words of my Indian agent (who ironically had never come to Mauritius) and thought foolishly, 'How much mauritian rupees would I need?? I have USDs' I took Mauritian Rupees for 10 USD. It was like around 300 MRU. Lession number 4.

ALWAYS CARRY THE LOCAL CURRENCY RATHER THAN USD UNLESS YOU ARE IN U.S.

After coming out of waiting area, my eyes were searching a big Volvo bus but there was none. And then the agent pointed us towards a minivan. "Are we going by this?", asked my wife. I could sense the disappointment in her voice. 'There must be some explanation', I started thinking. 'May be they will be picking some more passenger from another location.' ''Which location?', my evil half asked. 'May be some other airport' 'Not a chance' 'Then railway station?', my mediocre half showed his inability to defend himself anymore. "Rahul, lets get in", my wife made her peace with that small non-AC vehicle and I noted down a point to mention this disappointment in Feedback form. Eventually, we started our journey from south to north. It seems the airport was in South Maritius and our resort (once you are on islands, all the hotels turn up into resorts!) was in extreme north. If I have to explain this as an Indian version, I would say, we booked the hotel in Delhi and landed in Chennai. Thankfully, the distance between Mauritian Delhi and Mauritian Chennai was just 2 hours. Needless to say, we crossed the boundaries of the whole nation within 2 hours. As we were on the way to resort, the 'Travel Guide' introduced us to the tour itinerary. He was quite fluent, not only in his English but also in his jokes. The mechanical way in which he cracked some of them, I felt he must have mugged them up. Anyways, he told us how to get the sim card and water bottles. Yes, you read it correct. We were supposed to buy water because the one given in the hotel was quite costly. We stopped at one of the shops on the way where the shopkeeper lady could speak hindi. She helped us with the items and again we started back on the route. Even though Mauritius was colonized by France, many migrants from South Asia, mostly India have moved here. So, basically we were not getting that 'Foreign' feel. Moreover the driver started the radio and it played some old bollywood song. Me and my wife gave a nauseating glance at it. Still there were other things which made us feel that we are out of India. For example, the roads were extremely clean, not only the ones which were in cities but also countryside roads. I really wish we should follow that discipline in our country. Here were us, trying to feel the foreign touch, and there was our travel guide who had his notion that unless he speak in Hindi, we won't feel connected with him. So, every now and then, he was cracking some joke in Hindi. Let me tell you one more thing about this travel guide. He was like an HR in IT company, on your first day in a company, you rome around with your HR who becomes your buddy, but from second day onwards, you hardly see him and generally never interact. So, this travel guide who told us that he will be our single point of contact and we should call him for any damn thing, never came back to us. We saw him for the first and last time during that journey.



Ok, so finally we reached the hotel 'Le Grand Bleu'. Yup, it spells Bleu and not Blue. By the way, we came to know about actual accommodation just 2 days before our departure and the pictures of this resort were quite few on internet. But when we actually went inside, it was quite a good resort. We were welcomed by Watermelon juice. After completing the formalities, we were allotted rooms. When we entered the room, the spaciousness of the room stuck us like a blow. It ended even before we could walk more than 5 steps. We immediately went to the reception and exchanged the room. After taking a bath and freshening up, we decided to take a walk over hotel's private beach. The only problem with that beach was it was separated from resort by main road and was mostly rocky. We wandered over the beach in the evening light and took some photos. By evening, we had dinner. Till then we got friendly with other two couples with us. Joking about hotel arrangements and knowing everybody's marriage story, we spent rest of the evening. Next day was our actual sight seeing. I had my fingers crossed.



Next day morning, we packed our extra cloths, as it was the water sports day and were waiting at reception as we were told by our driver a day before that 'we have to be one time'. He was not there. Suddenly, someone told us at reception that 'resort provides with towels for beach activities, for free.' Last two words stuck us like lightening. Being Indian, we kind of think of it as moral responsibility to make use of any free service. We went down to rooms area to get the towels and we missed our so called punctual driver's guidelines. He came into the resort area, calling our names and our mobiles simultaneously. We rested our case by saying that we have been waiting in reception area for long time but he treated us as badly as any teacher treats a student who turns up into class halfway through. Sulkily we followed him outside to the same vehicle. This time, 3 couples were already sitting inside that small van. We practically stuffed us in and our first day started. He took us to the Palmer beach where there were lot of sport activities. That was the most clean beach I have ever seen in my life. There were people but there was so much space. I mean if you go to Goa or by that matter to any public beach in India, there are so many people around that you can not take a photo of beach without half nude unwanted people in it. But that was not the case here. All the photos we took had only us in it. The water was beautifully blue and transparent near the beach. On the sunny day, we found number of resorts alongside the beach, may be there were some houses. We envied them with all our heart. After enjoying the watersport activities like kayaking, para sailing, we were taken to a platform on the middle of ocean where we were going to do undersea walk. It was an awesome experience where a large sphere made up of glass is put on our head which supplies you oxygen and also pulls you down to the sea-bed. There were trained professional which took us to detour of 100m and showed us the marine life. They took our photos there. Though it sounds like the one shown on the discovery channel, it was not that high quality but definitely awesome experience. After coming out of water, driver took us to another location from where we were about to ride in speed boat and would go to an island called Ile Aux Cerfs. On the way, he tried to brainwash us by asking us to order food which would be 200 Mauritian Ruppess (400 INR), but we had plans to skip the lunch after heavy duty breakfast in the morning. The couple friend ordered the meal and while we were waiting for speed boats, there meals came. It was rice, daal and one curry in a plastic container. It was such a backstabbing betrayal by that driver, thought all of us. Finally waterboats arrived and all of us jumped in. To increase the excitement, we sat on the front side of the speedboat. It was such an awesome experience. Winds flowing through hair, we were riding into the Indian Ocean. The speedboat driver gave us brief information about a waterfall we were going to visit before reaching Ile Aux Cerfs. We could see our speedboat cutting sharply through the blue waters till we reached the backwater area. Once we entered that area, greenery was on both sides of us. Suddenly, the boat driver pointed his finger to sky, we saw a white bird in the sky Paille-en-route which is actually symbol of Air-Mauritius. We awed at it. Suddenly I remembered number of events during Kanha-Kisli trip with my friends were I used to 'aww' for no good reason. Anyways that is one different story. Finally we reached the waterfall. It was one shameful waterfall.



It was so small that in rainy season, Mumbai-Pune Highway has many such. But as this one could be visited only through sea-route, it was special. We enjoyed the waterfall from the speedboat and started our journey to the most hyped island in Mauritius, Ile Aux Cerfs. The moment we reached there, I realized why has it been so praised and hyped in all the travel forums on internet. It was the most beautiful island I have ever seen, just like any hollywood movie. Here for the first time, I felt like a foreigner, all the french crowd on the beach, people were sleeping on the beach, playing in the water and how can I describe the cleanliness. There was not a single piece of garbage, neither was there any signboard mentioning fine for putting garbage, otherwise in India, such sign boards are the perfect examples of irony. Small kids, I mean unimaginably small kids were trying to learn swimming with their parents. Kudos to that attitude of European/Americans. We were allowed to stay for only 1.5 hours which was such a small span of time, I mean it took us first 10 minutes just to gulp the notion of being on that beach. We spent most of our time in water and finally came back near our boat on time.(Remembering the morning fiasco) On our way back, the chatted with other 3 couples and came to know that they were here from last 3 days and today was the most fun day for them. This news saddened us, I mean if only today was the fun which we did enjoy thoroughly, it was only 1/3rd of our trip. What was going to happen for the rest of the trip, I wondered??


TO BE CONTINUED...

Semi-Annual Roadmap of this blog

मला वाचनाची आवड लागण्यामागे पु.ल. देशपांडे ह्यांच्या पुस्तकांचा फार मोठा हात आहे. त्यांच्या लेखनशैलीचा माझ्यावर प्रचंड प्रभाव आहे. त्यांची विनोदबुद्धी, कोटी करण्याची शैली मला भयंकर आवडते. त्यांची प्रवास वर्णने काय सुंदर असायची. त्यांच्या निरीक्षणशक्तीची दाद द्यायला हवी. खर पाहता माझ  पहिल पु.लं च पुस्तक हे एक प्रवासवर्णन होत. 'जावे त्यांच्या देशा'. व्हेनिस, हंगेरी , सान-फ्रान्सिस्को अश्या नानाविध ठिकाणांवर जाऊन तिथल्या संस्कृतीच, तिथल्या लोकांबद्दल पु.ल यांनी लिहिलेल्या गोष्टी वाचल्या की इतके सुंदर चित्र डोळ्यासमोर उभे राहतात कि कोणत्या हॉलीवूड चित्रपटात इतक सुंदर चित्रीकरण सापडणार नाही. अनेक वर्षांपासून माझ्या पण मनात एक सुप्त इच्छा होती की मी देखील असा प्रवासवर्णन लिहावं. यंदा जेव्हा मी मॉरीशस ला गेलो (यंदा म्हणजे तस पाहता तर मी पहिल्यांदाच गेलो!) तेव्हा मी अगदी निर्धार केला होता की प्रवासवर्णन लिहीणारच. त्या प्रवासाला आता ८ महिने झाले पण आजून योग आला नाही… बहुधा ९व्या महिन्यात माझ blog child होईल अशी आशा आहे.

जितक सुंदर पु.ल. जागांबद्दल, संस्कृतींबद्दल लिहितात तेवढंच सुंदर ते माणसांबद्दल लिहितात. 'व्यक्ती आणि वल्ली' हे पु.ल. च masterpiece माझ सगळ्यात आवडत पुस्तक आहे. तस काही मी माझ्या मित्रांबद्दल लिहेल अशी college च्या दिवसांमध्ये माझी महत्वाकांक्षा होती. असो, गेल्या काही दिवसांपासून मी माझ्या फेसबुकच्या newsfeed वर Humans of NewYork चे photos पाहत होतो. माझ्या अनेक मित्रांनी त्या पेजला लाईक केला होता. मी मात्र खूप skeptically विचार करत होतो की 'काय आहे यार हे HONY, इतका काय गवगवा करतात लोक त्याचा?', पण नंतर जेव्हा मी ते photos पाहणं सुरु केल तेव्हा त्यातला brilliance मला समजून आला. काय भारी concept आहे… brandon नावाच्या एका छायाचित्रकारानी New York मधे जागोजागी जाऊन वेगवेगळ्या लोकांशी संवाद साधला आणि त्यांचे छायाचित्र काढले. आपल्या photoblog वर त्याने ते छायाचित्र आणि त्या व्यक्तीसोबत केलेल्या संवादाचा संक्षेप लिहिला. लोकांची स्वप्ने, प्रेरणा, अडचणी त्यांच्या डोळ्यातून आणि शब्दातून मांडण्याचा हा प्रकार मला प्रचंड भावला. मी स्वतः पण अनेक दिवसांपासून असच काहीसं करण्याच्या विचारात होतो.

पुढील दोन महिन्यात मी वरील दोन गोष्टी माझ्या blog वर करण्याचा प्रयत्न करील. कारण कोण्या हुशार मनुष्याने म्हटल आहे.
Imitation is the best form of flattery. 

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